I have never tried Cuban rum or Cuban cigars. Living in the
United States makes these two things unusually difficult to obtain given the
illegal status of most, if not all, Cuban products in the country. As a result,
I have never seen Cuban rum or cigars to date, let alone had the opportunity to
drink and smoke them, respectively. When I learned two of Cuba’s most renowned
products are readily available in Canada, I decided to keep my eyes peeled for
both. After all, it is not likely I will soon have another chance to try
either. Additionally, I figured acting on the opportunity would provide an
easy, yet interesting “I have never…” event; even if doing so was not high on
my list or priorities. After stumbling upon a unique shop today, the pieces of
the puzzle needed to experience Cuban rum and Cuban cigars for the first time
came together, and my “I have never…” event for the day was set.
The opportunity to try a Cuban cigar and some Cuban rum
started with the discovery of a unique shop located in the hotel at which I’m
staying. When walking through the sprawling building during our conference
lunch time today I wandered passed the hotel lobby and down an extended hallway
leading to a side exit. The hallway was wide with doors sporadically appearing
in the long, smooth walls. The majority of these doors were designated for
employees only or led to other parts of the hotel. At first glance, there was
nothing special about them or the purposes they served. However, that changed
when I came across three glass panels displaying a room containing fine
furnishings and walls laden with tobacco pipes.
Julius Vesz Pipesmith Store |
I looked through the glass windows trying to make sense of
the discovery. The placement of the room seemed very out of the ordinary, and I
wasn’t quite sure what purpose it served. I took a step back and looked toward
the top of the windows to find the words “Julius Vesz Pipesmith” printed in
wide gold letters. Intrigued, I took another look at the glass panels before me
and found a small handle jutting from one of them. Realizing it was a door, I
grabbed the handle and pulled to make entry into this unique little space.
The smell of tobacco immediately struck me as I walked into
the room and saw an older man with white, thinning hair sitting behind a small
counter. “Good afternoon” He said without hesitation in a unique, obviously
foreign accent. I raised my hand in a mocked wave to acknowledge his greeting
as I looked around the room taking in the ornate pieces of furniture, wall
fixtures, and display cases. Rows of wooden and ivory tobacco pipes lined three
massive displays on the room’s left and back walls. A glass display cabinet in
the corner of the room had rows and rows of small metal figurines in painted
forms of various types of soldiers and battle scenes. Mounts of different trophies
of hunts from around the world spotted the walls overhanging curved, red leather chairs and sofas in the center of the room. It became immediately apparent I
was in a place unlike any other I had been before.
I took a few steps across the small room to get a closer
look at the pipes displayed on the wall. Above them a price of $169.00 or
$199.00 was displayed on small white placards. “Wow!” I said in response to
reading the tag for the first time, which prompted the man behind the counter
to explain to me that he handcrafted each pipe on display. In an effort to
justify the price, he described how the process required drying the root of a
rare tree, carving it, and putting together the components of the pipe. The
beauty of the pipes and the process the man was describing made me recognize
the fact I was before a true artist who worked in a dying art form. Impressed,
I continued working my way around the room, taking time to look at the detail
of each unique pipe. Turning back to the first display, I noticed a glass door
below the larger displays of pipes on the walls. I walked toward the displays
and leaned forward to get a better viewing angle of their contents. Inside were
small wooden boxes open for display. Each box contained rows of cigars with
small white banded tags reading, “Hand rolled in Havana.” Without effort I had
stumbled upon Cuban cigars.
Recognizing the opportunity before me, I opened the case
doors and picked up a cigar to confirm the language printed on the band. I
rolled the cigar across my hand to read the full line of text, and realized it
did, in fact, read as I originally saw it. I glanced back at the box from which
I had pulled the cigar to find the same text branded into the interior of the
lid on the wooden case. “Are these the real deal?” I asked as I turned to the
man at the counter. “Oh, yes, of course.” he said without a change in his
expression.
Receiving the confirmation I needed, I turned to the case
once more and grabbed two of the cigars before closing the wood and glass door.
Cigars in hand, I walked toward the man and set the cigars on the counter.
“You’ll take these?” the man asked. I confirmed my intent to buy them,
explaining my inexperience with Cuban cigars up to that point. The man
responded in an understanding tone when he learned I was from the United
States. “You will like these” he said with confidence, “they call them the best
for a reason.”
Unreal... |
Throughout the rest of our brief transaction the man
continued to explain the background of the cigars and his background with
pipesmithing. He told me of his roots in Austria, where his relatives had made
pipes for Austria aristocrats during a long since past era. He casually took a
pipe packed with the remnants of burned tobacco from his front pocket and
placed it in his mouth as he continued telling his story. It was clear he was
proud of his heritage, and I could understand why given the quality of the work
surrounding me. “Have you ever smoked a pipe?” he asked as he handed me a small
bag containing the cigars I had just purchased. I replied I had not. He smiled
and said, “Well, there it’s not as easy as it looks. You want a lesson you come
see me, ok?” I told him I would strongly consider his offer, time permitting,
before thanking him and leaving the store. I walked back to the hotel lobby
reflecting on the experience I had moments earlier. I thought about how the
store, the man, and the craftsmanship I had just encountered were enough to
make a great “I have never…” experience for the day, but I knew I was only
halfway to obtaining the materials I needed to complete my goal for the day. As
a result, I pressed forward to track down some Cuban rum.
The rest of the day moved quickly as I looked forward to my
first experience with Cuban cigars. Once our conference wrapped up for the day,
Justin and I immediately took to the streets to find the closest liquor store.
We wandered through the bustling streets of Old Toronto at the end of a workday
keeping our eyes peeled for any signs of a location to buy the Cuban rum I was
searching for. After walking several blocks, we stopped to reassess our
location. We had determined a liquor store was no more than two blocks from our
hotel before leaving, but there was no indication it was where we expected it
to be. Confused, we asked some passersby for some assistance locating the
store. A young man obliged our request, pointing behind him and explaining we
had to walk into one of the towering skyscrapers, head into the underground,
and follow the signs for Central Station to find the liquor store we were
seeking.
Acting on his advice we walked into the building and down a
flight of stairs. Reaching the bottom of the stairs, we were caught by surprise
by an elaborate spread of retail stores and underground passages. Around us
people hurried from one location to the next, following signs for various
subway terminals. Acknowledging the scope of the space around us, I looked at
Justin and said sarcastically, “I’ve never been in an underground city before.”
He smiled and said, “Yeah, this is pretty unbelievable” as we continued walking
down the winding passageway. Several minutes later, we found ourselves blocks
away from the building from which we accessed the underground mall around us.
Ironically, we found ourselves under our hotel when we finally came upon the
liquor store we were attempting to find. We entered and quickly located a
bottle of Havana Club seven year aged rum. Step two was complete, and I was
ready to taste Cuban rum and cigars for the first time.
After paying for the rum, we exited the liquor store and
continued following the signs displaying “Royal York Hotel” hanging from the
roof of the underground passage. A few minutes later, we reached a set of
stairs climbing back toward ground level. We walked up them and continued down
a small hallway to find ourselves at the base of the large spiral staircase
that was a main feature of the hotel lobby. Climbing the stairs we were back in our hotel. Baffled by
the fact we had just walked through half of downtown without stepping foot outside,
I let out a little statement of disbelief as we walked toward the elevators and
climbed toward our room.
The day's haul |
Upon getting back to our hotel room, my excitement led me to
ask Justin if he wanted a drink immediately. He said he could partake, so I
opened the bottle of rum and poured the light brown drink over ice into two
lowball glasses I found in our room. I screwed the cap back on the bottle of
liquor and set it on the table. “Here we go!” I said as I turned to Justin and
held out a glass for him to grab. We tapped our glasses together before taking
a sip of the rum. I let my first sip settle before I swallowed it down. It was
strong, yet light and smooth. It tasted more or less like any other rum I have
tasted before, but I noticed it wasn’t as rough to drink straight. It was good,
which meant a lot to me given my usual indifference toward rum.
After drinking our glasses through, Justin and I headed to
dinner with the rest of the participants in our conference. We decided we would
take the cigars along with us to have after dinner. Our meal was run of the
mill Italian food at a chain restaurant near our hotel. It was nothing special,
but I found myself enjoying the food none-the-less. Perhaps it was the
excitement building over the forthcoming new experience smoking a Cuban cigar,
or perhaps it was the Cuban rum I drank earlier. Whatever the reason, I was carrying a particularly positive
spirit and I was looking forward to the rest of the night.
Up close... |
After dinner our group split and went to various locations
to round out the evening. After
grabbing a drink at a nearby pub, several members of our group, Justin, and I
started making our way to a recommended live music bar several blocks from our
hotel. Realizing it meant, at minimum, we would be walking five blocks, I
decided to partake in my first Cuban cigar on the walk over. I grabbed the
cigar out of my pocket and asked around the group for a light. Against the
strong evening breeze a member of our group extended his hand cupped around a
slender sliver lighter. After several attempts, the wind finally relented long
enough to permit us to light the cigar. I began puffing away to until smoke and
embers started to consume the tip of the tobacco and the Clairo leaf wrapping.
My concentration moving from lighting the cigar back to continuing our walk, I
realized I was officially smoking my first Cuban cigar. The smoky, robust
bouquet flavors filled my mouth with each draw off of the roll of tobacco. I
was surprised at the strength of the smoke as it filled my mouth, but I did not
find myself encountering the rough, suffocating feelings that often come with
smoking.
I puffed away as we walked, eventually taking a quick glance
at the cigar some time after it was lit. In little more than four blocks I had
whittled the cigar down to nearly half its original length. Feeling the smoke
linger in my mouth, I decided it was probably time to put out the cigar and
save the rest for a later time. As we approached the music venue, I snuffed out
the tip of the cigar on a brick wall and tapped the end to check for
temperature before tucking it in my pocket. My first experience with a Cuban
cigar was over, but the sweet taste of the tobacco stayed with me through the
music and drinks that came with the rest of the night.
Today’s events gave me an opportunity to experience something that would have otherwise flown under my radar had it not been for my trip to Canada. The series of events leading to my first taste of Cuban cigars and Cuban rum was more a result of luck and coincidence than careful planning, but I’m glad it occurred. While I doubt, for a variety of reasons, Cuban cigars and Cuban rum will become a routine occurrence in my life, experiencing both is something to which I’m glad I can lay claim. It was another day of new experiences in Toronto. With one day left, I’m curious as to what surprises lay in store before my trip back to the states.
A good night for a walk |
I'm jealous of this one. I haven't yet had the pleasure of a Cuban cigar. I do love road trips, tho.. So maybe one day I will have to head to the great white north..
ReplyDeleteI actually thought of you when I stumbled upon Julius Vesz's store, Chris. You would love that place! It's practically a massive humidor with an ornate den in the middle of it. If you ever make your way up to Toronto (it's actually not that far away... one hour and 30 minute flight), I highly recommend visiting Julius. His store is just off the lobby inside the Royal York Hotel downtown. Totally worth it.
DeleteI Hope you brought me one back. Sounds amazing.
ReplyDeleteI wish I could have done that for you. Julius was very clear we shouldn't make an attempt to take them home with us... and I wasn't about to risk some jail time for the sake of an exotic smoke.
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